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Whilst to the untrained eye it might just look like a "vertically striped" dial there is actually much more to it!
This steel and gold Rolex Datejust 16233 dates to 1989. It is fitted with the cal. 3135 automatic movement. The caliber 3135 movement was first introduced in 1988 and quickly became Rolex’s main movement, used in many models such as the Datejust all the way to the Submariner date models. This watch features the classic 36mm steel case and gold jubilee bracelet. This would be called a
champagne tapestry dial.
It is important to note that textured dials in general, make up a small minority of all Rolex dials. There are many more examples of flat, traditional dials, while the exact number of textured dials is unknown.
The Datejust has remained a staple in Rolex watchmaking since it was released in 1945. In this example it is easily distinguished by the classic steel Oyster case and jubilee bracelet. While the Datejust typically conveys versatility, the tapestry dials can add that extra uniqueness to the traditional timepiece.
The Tapestry dials are also a simple in design, as thin vertical ridges are cut into the dial surface, which gives it a three-dimensional effect.
Quite the unique piece, equipped with ‘bark’ design on both the bezel and president bracelet.
I really appreciate the way the raised texture of the tapestry dials catches light. While some may say that these tapestry dials are examples of the excess from the 80s, I believe these textures add tasteful depths to the dial.
The dial was discontinued when the 162xx series Datejust series stopped production in 2005. So you will not find any tapestry Dials past the moment when the 162xx series was discontinued and replaced with the 6 digit reference numbers. This makes these tapestry dials highly coveted among watch collectors.
A two-tone Rolex Datejust tapestry dial was worn by Patrick Bateman in the famous movie ‘American Psycho’ (2000). Following the movie release, Patrick Bateman became an unlikely star of pop culture, with his sadistic lifestyle overlooked by his chic clothes and luxe lifestyle.
The watch he wore was a two-tone 36 mm Rolex Datejust 16013 with a Jubilee bracelet, perfectly suited for 1980s New York City in which the movie was set in. Bateman obsessively delights in detailing every aspect of his upper class life style, and what better choice of a timepiece than the Rolex Datejust with a unique tapestry dial?
Picture credits:
1. Rolex Datejust Tapestry ref 16233 / Credit: Timeless Vintage Watches
2. Rolex Datejust Tapestry ref 16220 / Credit: Classic Driver
3. Rolex YG Day-Date Tapestry Dial with factory diamonds ref 18308 / Credit: HQ Milton
4. Patrick Bateman (Christian Bale) in American Psycho and his Rolex Datejust Two-Tone Tapestry Dial
Written by:
Montres Publiques
Visit Montres Publiques to read more about vintage watches, watchmaking history and the watch industry as a whole.